| Lawns November 2009
Please Note: All recommendations are for central Maryland. Time frames shift two weeks earlier in Southern Maryland and the Eastern Shore and two weeks later for Western Maryland. Check publications for further information.
Culture
- Leaves that fall onto the lawn can be shredded with a lawnmower and left to decompose naturally on the lawn. These mulched leaves can be left in place if they don’t exceed 1 inch in depth. Deep piles of leaves may smother and kill turf crowns. Otherwise, use a grass catcher to collect leaves and then use them in the compost pile or to winter-mulch beds.
- Cool season grasses, like bluegrass and fescue, may be fertilized in September, October and November with up to 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet each month. Apply no more than 3 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. in total. Application of 3 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. is considered a high maintenance approach to lawn care and should be used for newly seeded turf or thin, off color lawns in high traffic areas. Lawns in generally good condition can be well maintained with a lower maintenance approach , which requires only 2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. per year. If it is necessary to apply lime, spread it after all fertilizer has been applied and before the ground freezes. Typically it is now too late to broadcast lawn seed and expect it to survive the winter.
 This is still good time to control wild garlic, clover, ground ivy, chickweed, and other difficult weeds with an herbicide if daytime temperatures remain in the sixties. Do not spray herbicides around ponds or on breezy days. Always read and closely follow all label instructions.- If you have a crabgrass problem consider treating your lawn next spring with a pre-emergent herbicide. However, improving the thickness of the lawn in fall with over-seeding and proper fertilization will greatly reduce crabgrass invading the lawn next spring.
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